DIY Venus 2.0

yet another stroker/milker prototype

Here is the next generation prototype for the DIY Venus. I have been working on a few different iterations of this next generation machine. This is the "analog" version which incorporates a pneumatic air cylinder and solenoid valves for its operation. A good bit of the inspiration for this next generation is largely from discovering all of the great work done by the open source community in the DIY sex toy movement. And a huge amount of info at MikesMachines over at GitHub. Be sure to check out his pages as well as links to other projects. Very cool stuff going on from really smart people.

Components

Receiver

Link to VenusforMen

Hose Set

Link to Venus for Men

Solenoid Air Valves(2 req'd)

1/4inch DC 12V 2 Way Normally Closed Electric Solenoid Air Valve

Two Electronic solenoid valves will be needed.

Disc

This works well IF you use an air cylinder with a large bore diameter. I suggest a sc100x50 (100mm bore 50mm stroke length) this size cylinder only requires a short stroke length, and this disc is perfect for it.

Pneumatic Air Cylinder

Baomain Pneumatic Air Cylinder SC 100 x 150 PT1/2; Bore: 4", Stroke: 6"; Screwed Piston Rod Dual Action

I think an SC100 x 50-150 would be great.

PWM DC Motor Speed Controller

DC 10-55V/60A, LED Display Stepless DC Motor Speed Controller with Adjustable Potentiometer ad Ford-Brake-Reverse Switch. Purchased from amazon for $20.

PWM DC Motor Speed Controller

300W 24V Electric Brushless Motor

300W 24V Electric Brushless Motor with 9 Teeth Sprocket Chain Chain Sprocket and Mounting Bracket, 300RPM 18.4A Electric Scooter Motor

MY1016Z - Brushless Scooter Motor

Power Supply

CUI Inc. VGS-200C-24

I have tried several different power supplies over the years, and some were good some bad. This one is a good one. Purchased from Digikey for $30.

24V Power supply

Air Cylinder mounted

This is a SC 63x50 air cylinder. Mounting is with 4 M8 x 1.5" bolts through the mdf into mounting points on end of the cylinder.

Air Cylinder with Air Manifold

The Diaphragm and Air Control box have been replaced by the air cylinder and Air valve solenoids.

Custom parts for linkage

The disk is replaced with a flat bar with a z shaped bend to create an offset. The holes are exactly an inch apart to get the full 2" stroke from the cylinder. A 1/4" bolt with a spacer, to get the linkage straight to the shaft of the air cylinder, 2 female rod ends with a length of threaded rod attach to a custom knuckle joint with a 5/16 nut welded to the top. I welded a M16 nut to a 5/16" coupling nut for the connection to the air cylinder shaft.

Speed control Mounting

I mounted the speed control with a couple small screws and made connections from AC power, DC out to motor. I modified the stock on/off speed potentiometer connections to lengthen the remote. I just used a length of Cat5 wire and made my own custom remote box from a block of wood.

Custom remote

I used a length or Cat5 wire to connect the potentiometer / on-off switch to the speed control unit. As well as a three position switch for the Air valves. Secure the wire in the box with a few staples or tie a knot so you cant yank the wire from the box.

Completed unit

(well functioning unit anyway)

For this unit I just repurposed the same enclosure from the previous build, so it doesnt actually fit very well. But it is just a prototype. The next build will have a custom enclousure sized for the components. Still working out exactly which cylinder I want to use etc. However, I am very pleased with the performance of it as is so........ may just use the components I got.

Air Control System

Air control is now performed by way of two normaly closed, solinoid air valves. Each valve has a one way flow valve inline with the connection to the manifold (the blue aliminum device). the valves are controlled by a three position switch wired to the valves and a 12V power source. Flip the switch one way and it triggers the air in valve, the other for air out, and in middle for both closed. Add air into the system for a longer stroke and take air out to bring the unit close to the body (so it doesnt pop off).

Air Control Manifold

1/4" 3 Way 6 Port Aluminum Air Hose Inline Manifold Block Splitter

The manifold is fitted with 1/4" pipe thread nipples to connect the air valves and to connect it to the air cylinder. Use teflon pipe thread tape on all connections..

Brass Nipples

1/4 NPT x 1/4 NPT Male Solid Brass Hex Nipples

The manifold is fitted with 1/4" pipe thread nipples to connect the air valves and to connect it to the air cylinder. Use teflon pipe thread tape on all connections..

Air Control System

Here is an example of how i have the manifold hooked up. This setup is connected directly to the top port on the air cylinder with 1/4npt brass nipples. the solenoids are connected to the manifold via a oneway valve which is also 1/4npt threads. Make sure when you are purchasing your components that they all have the same threading! Save yourself a headache. on this unit I have connected a brass gate valve to the input of the "air in" solenoid. this gives me greater control of how much air is let into the system when switched on. It only takes small amounts of air to effect the stroking action.

One way valves

AKB One-way Valve Air Pneumatic Check Valve Connector

Air control is now performed by way of two normaly closed, solinoid air valves. Each valve has a one way flow valve inline with the connection to the manifold (the blue aliminum device). the valves are controlled by a three position switch wired to the valves and a 12V power source. Flip the switch one way and it triggers the air in valve, the other for air out, and in middle for both closed. Add air into the system for a longer stroke and take air out to bring the unit close to the body (so it doesnt pop off). These valves can be purchased from several manufactures in the U.S. but they art $16 a piece. Or $2.15 from aliexpress, just have to wait a few weeks to be delivered.

Top Tips

An air leak wont let you dial in your settings and your unit wont perform as it should. If your experiencing lots of "pop-off" you may have an air leak. If you have a properly sized receiver, the correct amount of stroke for your air cylinder and no leaks, you will not have a problem with "pop-off".
Keep it simple stupid. The old K.I.S.S. rule applies here for sure. At least on your first build. dont worry about how pretty it is or how small of a box you can fit it in, get one working correctly so you get a good grasp of how your unit operates. after you understand what does what and why, then start modifying the style of it.
Provide accurate measurements of your member when purchasing the receiver from ABCO. they request several different measurements of you both flacid and erect, the most crucial being the circumference (girth). If your receiver doesn't have the right size liner in it you wont get the most out of the unit or may not work well at all.
Use teflon tape on all threaded connections, and hose clamps for airlines.
When purchasing components make sure they are the same threading, I like 1/4 NPT, check for gender as well.

I am planning on creating a parts list of sorts so that you can make sure you get the correct parts for whichever unit you want to build. There are several different options and some parts arent needed depending on your choices. For now, I would suggest that before you make your purchases, you contact me and I will take a look and make sure your getting the correct parts.

Dont want to build one yourself? Pay me to build you one! Drop me a message in Reddit, or send me a message at my Fetlife profile. We can work out a plan and price for a unit for your very own!!

Vids of it in action

Copy of PXL_20230613_145337782.TS.mp4

Here is a quick vid of the air cylinder and solenoid valve version 2.0